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Insecticide To Kill House Fly – The Last And Effective Line Of Defense

Houseflies are winged creatures that do not harm us or livestock directly, but they do create a nuisance. They come in touch with animals and beings readily. Besides the annoying feeling of a buzzing insect, they also transmit infection through their sponge-like mouthparts. From cholera to intestinal worms to dysentery to typhoid to gastroenteritis, houseflies are the carriers of many diseases. These potential vectors fly from one location another spreading contagion. It is why it is essential to control and eradicate them.
Chemical Control Of Housefly
A deep dive into insecticides and how to use them to control flies will be done here. But before you can remove something, you have to know where it is, right? This is the first step to fly control – inspection. Find all the locations in and around the house that are attracting houseflies and the materials that are sending the invitation. Then identify the kind of flies that are overrunning the home. The third step is to get rid of the pests using different tools.
The Process Of House Fly Control
Step 1: Try to exclude, i.e., bar entry to the flies, from the area.
Step 2: Use sanitation measures to get rid of the houseflies.
Step 3: Treat the resting locations of the flies and other surfaces with residual insecticides.
Step 4: Apply pesticides like larvicides to suppress further growth of flies.
Insecticides should be used when fly control is not achieved by the first two steps or natural methods. Residual chemical treatment should be done at least once in 30 days or maximum of once in 60 days. This time limit is crucial because sun, rain and high temperatures either wash away or break down the insecticides. For most effective control, use all the steps in combination.
Why Chemical Fly Control Should Be The Last Resort?
The first thing that pops to mind when we think of flies plaguing us is chemical control, but it is not a standalone solution. It has to be appropriated as “part of an integrated fly management program.” Keep it as the last resort because:

Flies have the strength to develop resistance to the commonly found insecticides.

These mutable species do so by:

  • metabolic degradation
  • sequestration of toxins
  • reduced cuticle penetrance
    • This resistance makes it harder to kill them.

The only way to ensure that flies do not find approaches to avoiding toxic residue is a control and management program. It should encompass the three steps we have explained above.

A Smorgasbord Of Fly Control Insecticides

Up till now, you have learned the fundamental way of control flies and why chemicals should be the last line of defense. Now that you have been adequately cautioned, we move on to the different types of insecticides that are available for fly management.

  • Methomyl
    One of the most used pesticides, in the past decade flies, have become highly resistant to it. Research conducted by the University of California resulted in proving that the house fly population is not being controlled by the chemical anymore. Flies in California have become resistant to methomyl baits.
  • Nithiazine
    A more effective compound, when placed as bait strips low on the ground it proves to knock out flies left, right and center. Nithiazine can be positioned near corrals and animal pens as long as the bait is not reachable by the animal and near where flies congregate.
  • Imidacloprid
    Another fly killing chemical that gives fast results, it can be used as bait or painted on landing surfaces of flies by blending with water. Imidacloprid baits can be placed near pens too just like nithiazine. The lures can also be sprinkled on the ground.

The Basic Method Of House Fly Insecticide Use
To employ a chemical to control fly population in your home or outside, these are the essential steps to be taken.

  • In an empty room, attic, closet or storage space put a fly strip that releases pesticides.
  • To get rid of adult flies in the home spray a non-residual contact aerosol. Ensure that it is labeled for mature flies.
  • To permanently remove all houseflies, spray every surface with a residual insecticide. Doors, screens, window frames, any entry points, etc. should be sprinkled

The first two steps will only offer temporary relief. Therefore the 3rd step is crucial. Be careful while using pesticides and insecticides. Read the description entirely and follow the directions exactly.
An Exhaustive Technique Of Fly Control – Indoors
The above process is a gist of the method one can use to control houseflies. We now look into a more detailed process. When it comes to removing flies from inside a home, you have two options.
This is the simplest tool for you. A fogger or space spray is an aerosol spray that kills pests on contact. It has to be sprayed into the air and not on a surface. These are best used when the house is particularly infested by flies, and you need quick results. But it only kills flies that are buzzing around. All eggs, larvae and hidden flies are left behind alive. The most common spray insecticide is pyrethrin.
Good To Know:

  • Space spray is best for small areas and as an option for future use.
  • A fogger bug is ideal for large location.
  • Vacate the room right after you use the spray or fogger.
  • Ventilate it entirely when you re-enter the room.
  • Reading all label instructions and following them is vital.


  • Fly Bait:
    These are subtle baits that can be utilized in residential and commercial places. They are best used in any situation where sprays or light traps can’t be employed. They are available in the market as:
  • Fly insecticide powder that can be mixed with water and then painted or sprayed on erect surfaces.
  • Spray that can be squirted on exteriors that are non-porous.
  • Pieces of plastic.
  • Pieces of strings.
  • Stickers that can be glued to windows or walls.
  • Fly Bait Strip:
    These fly killing baits are full of pheromone called Muscalure and attractants. The latest chemical filled insecticide can be purchased at feed stores and farms. They are the baits that need to be kept low on the ground and near animal corrals. Imidacloprid is one such granular bait that comes within this category. The grainy bait is best used by scattering on the soil near animal pens. It can also be painted on surfaces once every two to three weeks.

Insecticide Fly Bait, Trap And Spray For Outdoor Control

An inside of a home will only remain housefly free if the outside is also. So here are some savvy ways of insecticide application in the open air.
Fly Insecticide Bait:
When the source of fly invitation “cannot be completely controlled such as on a farm, kennel area, near dumpsters or near composting areas,” then the logical answer is bait. These baits have pheromone and food attractant that invite flies to it. Once eaten, the insecticide in the bait kills the flies.
How to build a fly bait station?

  • Fill the station with the fly bait as written on the label of the product.
  • Mount the station on a wall or fence in a place where flies congregate like garbage cans or backside of restaurants.
  • Use zip ties, nails or screws to install the bait station.
  • Shut the locking lid of the bait to ensure that curious minds like children and pets don’t reach it. Furthermore, the bait is protected from wind, water, and sun.
  • Every 24 to 72 hours check the bait.
  • Refill when necessary.

Fly Insecticide Spray:
If the fly population outside a residence is minor, then a chemical residual concentrated spray can be used. For application, take a hand pump sprayer and add the insecticide to it. Pour water to dilute the chemical as instructed on the label. Now spray the fly killing insecticide on eaves, overhands, door and window frames, porch lights, etc. When the temperature is warm, do repeat treatment once a month. Always use sprays along with other techniques, if the housefly infestation is average or above.
Fly Insecticide Trap:
When the levels of flies, irritating you, are high or at a medium, use traps. Fly traps are an excellent method:

  • When there are breeding female flies around
  • When sprays are not an option or wished for.

How do traps work?

  • They are hung at eye level about 30 feet from the building that should be fly free zone.
  • The trap should be in a sunlit location.
  • They attract female flies as a place to lay eggs.
  • Once inside, they are trapped.
  • Check the trap 2 times in 7 days.
  • Change the trap when required.

Sayonara With A Precautionary Touch
These cares that need to be taken can alter from product to product, thus always read the instructions after the purchase of fly insecticide. Only use the fly killing chemical where it is advised. Always keep them away from animals and little ones. Store them in a safe place and as directed. The last tip is to keep in mind that housefly insecticide traps, baits, and sprays are the last line of defense. It is a known housefly fact that correct sanitation and manure management are the keys to controlling population all year round.

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